The train departed just as we hopped on to one of
the compartments…we had made it by a hair’s breadth. It took some time to
recover and pull our luggage under our berth. The rest of the three and half
our journey was eventless except for the regular snacks/beverage servings, hallmark
of services offered on all Rajdhani trains. At about 8.40 p.m. the train halted
at Sawai Madhopur station and we alighted on to the well-lit platform. The
weather was much cooler here. As advised, we took an auto rickshaw to the
hotel. As we moved towards the forest and away from the main town area, the air
suddenly turned chilly. The 20 minute ride amidst the silent roads and dark
surrounding sent a strange feeling of excitement and fear of the unknown.
Once at the hotel we completed the formalities and
were shown our room on the first floor. It was a last room in an open corridor
beyond which, through the darkness, appeared to look like a terrace. Being a
little exhausted and not quite hungry, we retired for the night.
Peacock calls greeted us early the next morning…what
a pretty sight it was from our well-netted and grilled windows. 4 to 5 peacocks
were moving about amidst large trees and thick grass. The soft chirping of
various birds and other typical sounds of a forest had a very soothing effect
on the mind…an ideal way to begin the holiday!! The hotel had a huge well
maintained garden on the front side, where we spent most of the morning.
In the
meantime I also checked out with the reception to make a booking for the
safari…to my disappointment I was informed that chances of a gypsy are next to
impossible and considering the holiday rush, I would be lucky to even get a
canter. Adding to the woes, I was informed that this was not a good time to
visit since the enormous crowds would normally deter tigers from coming out in
the open and it was preferable to stay 4-5 days and make atleast 10 safaris to
be fortunate enough to sight a tiger. I went back with fingers crossed, once
again cursing my procrastination at not having made online bookings earlier.
The expansive lawns |
The air had turned very hot around 2.30 p.m. when we
were informed by the hotel reception that seats had been confirmed and the
canter was on its way. By the time we came down to the hotel lobby, the canter
had come and we were ahoy!! Every bone, muscle and tissue in my body was
bubbling with excitement at the very thought of what lay ahead. Very soon we
had entered the Ranthambore National Park and the canter was making its way
though rugged roads. The large trees protected us from the scorching sun. The
first animals that we could spot were deer – chital, barasingha, spotted etc.
Next were various species of monkeys. As we neared water bodies, everyone on
the canter was on the lookout for some elusive movement but even after an hour,
we could spot turtles, crocodiles, fish etc. As the afternoon sun severely beat
down upon us, the initial enthusiasm slowly began to subside. Another hour
passed and all we saw were some more varieties of birds. Alas! our driver
parked the canter on the edge of the huge water body where a tiger had
been spotted in the morning. Everyone on board kept looking out, once to the
left and then to the right and then behind; the hush hush tones gradually
changed to murmuring which slowly got louder. From a distance loud forest calls
could be heard…birds and monkey alerts, I was told later on, signals that a big
cat was around.
The Majestic Entry |
Cantering on the Jungle Trail! |
It's a green world! |
Barasingha cooling off! |
Lone Chital |
Finally a Monkey... |
Can you spot the alligator? |
The Croc is almost not there... |
A Spot Where We Would Return |
Water's Edge - Where We Waited |
And then with a jerk the driver yanked the canter
out of hibernation and scampered towards the thicket. Other canters could also
be seen rushing in. This rush continued for the next few minutes without any
particular direction. Finally our canter settled at a place where all other
vehicles had congregated. There were shouts and loud calls for spotting a big
cat. Since everyone was looking and pointing in a fixed direction our eyes
followed only to see the vaguely see the wall beside the entrance of the dilapidated fort. The
chattering reached its crescendo soon when apparently the cat was sighted
again. We could now make out that it was a leopard that was being referred to.
My eyes furiously hunted for a sighting but even after standing on the seat
nothing seemed to be there. With a feeling of despair I got off and sat down.
However, there were again loud sounds from the crowds and with hope in my
heart, I stood up. And this time the foliage could not block my vision. The leopard was right here...but we were at a distance! At a
distance I could clearly see the furtive movements of the spotted cat with its
tail swishing gingerly on the broken fort wall. The sighting, though momentary
and not capable of being captured on camera, was the first feeling of contentment that I felt on
having made this trip. By now everyone in the canter had had their share of
‘glory’!
The sun was no more beating
down now and with the time approaching for the end of the safari, did make my
heart heavy. After all, whether you spotted a leopard or not, the honour lay in
sighting our national animal. The driver slowly pulled out of the spot and
began to move towards the exit. After moving for a few minutes on a now
familiar stretch, it stopped beside a huge cactus tree and cut the ignition. I
was wondering what he was upto when the guard announced that they would wait a
few more minutes here to check out a last time if there is any possibility of a
sighting. Once again hope kindled in my heart…in the silence. And then it
happened…
(To be continued....)